Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern


I’ve used Stylecraft Special DK with a 2mm hook – but any DK yarn will do.
Colours: Petrol, Cream, Parchment, and White
Black embroidery floss for eyes and mouth
Polyester toy filling, pins to place pieces before sewing together, a darning needle and stitch markers. (I prefer using scrap yarn as “stitch markers”).

For Valentine’s Snorlax:
Colours: Pomegranate, Soft Peach, Fondant, and White
Instead of black embroidery floss I’ve chosen a warm purple, which looks like a darker version of Pomegranate.



dc double crochet
sl st slip stitch
st/sts stitch/es
inc dc 2 in one st
inc3 dc 3 in one st
dec decrease; insert hook in the front loop of the next two sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, y.o. and pull through remaining two loops –> one dc placed into two sts
sk skip
y.o. yarn over
puff st puff stitch; y.o., insert hook in next st, y.o. and pull through st, *y.o., insert hook in same st, y.o. and pull through st**, repeat *to** twice, y.o. and pull through all loops on hook.
(rs) right side
(ws) wrong side


Once all the below pieces are ready start the assembly by attaching the cream face & body front piece. This makes it easier to find the right placement of ARMS, FEET and EARS. If possible I would recommend using a photo of Snorlax as reference for best possible outcome.




Yarn: Petrol

Round 1: dc 6 in Magic Ring (6)
R2: Inc in all sts around (12)
R3: *(inc) x 3, dc 3**, repeat *to** twice (18)
R4: *(dc, inc) x 3, dc 3 **, repeat *to** twice (24)
R5: *(dc 2, inc) x 3, dc 3**, repeat *to** twice (30)
R6: *(dc 3, inc) x 3, dc 3, repeat *to** twice (36)
R7: *(dc 4, inc) x 3, dc 3, repeat *to** twice (42)
R8-16: dc 42 (42)
R17: *dc 3, (dc 4, dec) x 3**, repeat *to** twice (36)
R18: *dc 3, (dc 3, dec) x 3**, repeat *to** twice (30)

Start stuffing the head lightly and continue working on the body:

R19: *dc 3, (dc 3, inc) x 3, repeat *to** twice (36)
R20: *dc 3, (dc 4, inc) x 3, repeat *to** twice (42)
R21: *dc 3, (dc 5, inc) x 3, repeat *to** twice (48)
R22: *dc 3, (dc 6, inc) x 3, repeat *to** twice (54)
R23: *dc 3, (dc 7, inc) x 3, repeat *to** twice (60)
R24-28: 60 dc (60)
R29: *dc 3, (dc 8, inc) x 3, repeat *to** twice (66)
R30-32: dc 66 (66)
R33: *dc 3, (dc 9, inc) x 3**, repeat *to** twice (72)
R34-36: dc 72 (72)
R37: *3 dc, (dc 10, inc) x 3**, repeat *to** twice (78)
R38-42: dc 78 (78)
R43: *dc 3, (dc 10, dec) x 3**, repeat *to** twice (72)
R44: *dc 3, (dc 9, dec) x 3**, repeat *to** twice (66)
R45: *dc 3, (dc 8, dec) x 3**, repeat *to** twice (60)
R46: *dc 3, (dc 7, dec) x 3**, repeat *to** twice (54)
R47: *dc 3, (dc 6, dec) x 3**, repeat *to** twice (48)
R48: *dc 3, (dc 5, dec) x 3**, repeat *to** twice (42)

Start stuffing the body

R49: *dc 3, (dc 4, dec) x 3**, repeat *to** twice (36)
R50: *dc 3, (dc 3, dec) x 3**, repeat *to** twice (30)
R51: *dc 3, (dc 2, dec) x 3**, repeat *to** twice (24)

If you need more stuffing, now’s a good time to add some more

R52: *dc 3, (dc, dec) x 3**, repeat *to** twice (18)
R53: (dc, dec) x 6 (12)
R54: dec x 6 (6)

Fasten off and sew in loose end.



Yarn: Cream

Chain 12

Row 1: start in the second ch from hook 10 dc, inc3 (rs), turn, (13)
Row 2: dc 12, inc3 (ws), turn (15)
Row 3: dc 14, inc3 (rs), turn (17)
Row 4: dc 16, inc3 (ws), turn (19)
Row 5: dc 18, inc (rs), turn (20)
Row 6: dc 19, inc (ws), turn (21)
Row 7: dc 20, inc (rs), turn (22)
Row 8: dc 21, inc (ws), turn (23)

Rows 9-16: dc 23 (23)

Row 17: sk1, dc 20, sk1, dc (rs), turn (21)
Row 18: sk1, dc 18, sk1, dc (ws), turn (19)
Row 19: sk1, dc 16, sk1, dc (rs), turn (17)
Row 20: sk1, dc 14, sk1, dc (ws), turn (15)
Row 21: sk1, dc 12, sk1, dc (rs), turn (13)
Row 22: sk1, dc 10, sk1, dc (ws), turn (11)
Row 23: dc 11 (rs), turn (11)
Row 24: dc 10, inc (ws), turn (12)
Row 25: dc 11 (rs), inc, turn (13)
Row 26: inc, dc 11, inc (ws), turn (15)

Row 27-31: dc 15

Row 32: sk1, dc 12, dec (ws), turn (13)

Continue creating Top Right of Snorlax’s face

Row 33: sk1, dc 5, sk1, dc (rs), turn (6)
Row 34: sk1, dc 3, sk1, dc (ws), turn (4)
Row 35: sk1, dc, sk1, dc (rs), turn (2)
Row 36: sk1, dc (ws) (1)

Fasten off and sew in loose end.

Continue creating Top Left of Snorlax’s face attaching the yarn with a sl st in the middle dc of row 31 – the same (seventh) st that the last dc of row 33 of Top Right is placed.

Row 33: dc in same st, dc 4, sk1, dc (rs), turn (6)
Row 34: sk1, dc 3, sk1, dc (ws), turn (4)
Row 35: sk1, dc, sk1, dc (rs), turn (2)
Row 36: sk1, dc (ws) (1)

Fasten off and sew in loose end.

Work a round of dc roughly 86 evenly around the entire piece (right side facing):

Start with dc 11 at the bottom of the piece. dc in each row until you reach the neck (roughly 21 sts), ski 1 st, dc in corner of neck, sk 1 and continue dc 11 until you reach the top of the first eye – 2dc to in the top of the eye. dc 2, dc in corner between eyes, dc 2, 2dc in the top of the left eye. dc 11 down the left side of the face, sk 1, dc in corner of neck, sk 1, and dc 21 until you reach the end. sl st into first dc, fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing the piece onto the body. (NOTE: below photo is prior to round of dc)

RS facing use black embroidery floss to sew on eyes and mouth. The piece is now ready to be sewn onto body.



Yarn: Petrol

The arms are worked in both continous rounds and rows:

Round 1: dc 6 in Margic Ring (6)
R2: (inc3, dc 2) x 2 (10)
R3: (inc, dc, inc, dc 2) x 2 (14)
R4-5: dc 14
R6: dc 2, inc, 6 sl st, inc, dc 4 (16)
R7: dc 4, sl st 6, dc 6 (16)
R8: dc 4, sl st 6, dc 6 (16)
R9: dc 3, inc, sl st 6, inc, dc 5 (18)
R10: dc 5, sl st 6, dc 7 (18)
R11: dc 5, sl st 6, dc 7 (18)

The rest of the arm will be worked in rows

Row 1: dc 5 (rs), turn
Row 2: dc 12 (ws), turn
Row 3: dc 12 (rs), turn
Row 4: dc 12 (ws), turn
Row 5: sk1, dc 9, sk1, dc (rs), turn (10)
Row 6: dc 10 (ws)
Row 7: sk1, dc 7, sk1, dc (rs), turn (8)
Row 8: dc 8 (ws), turn
Row 9: dc 8 (rs)

Fasten off and leave a long end for sewing arm onto body.

Use some leftover cream yarn to sew on three claws on each hand (see photo below).

Stuff before attaching to body.


Yarn: Parchment, Cream and White – note the colour changes as you go.

R1: dc 6 in Margic Ring (6)
R2: inc x 6 (12)
R3: (dc, inc) x 6 (18)

Change yarn: Cream

R4: (inc, dc 2) x 6 (24)
R5: all in the back loops only: dc 8, *change to White and puff st in next st, change to Cream, dc 2**, repeat three times, and continue in Cream dc 7
R6: dc 24
R7: dc 9, (dec) x 3, dc 9 (21)

Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew feet onto body. Stuff before attaching to body.The three white claws (puff sts) should face the front of the body.



Yarn: Petrol

R1: dc 6 in Margic Ring (6)
R2: dc 6 (6)
R3: (dc, inc) x 3 (9)
R4: dc 9 (9)
R5: (dc 2, inc) x 3 (12)

Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew ears onto head.


Please do not reprint, sell or claim the pattern as your own. I’ve loved writing this pattern so please don’t forget to credit the pattern designer. 

INSTAGRAM – I would love to see your creations! Don’t forget to tag me in your post or on your photo (@knittycatcrochet), and don’t forget to use #knittycatcrochetsnorlax

RAVELRY – I’m also on Ravelry so come find me and the Snorlax pattern there!

For any questions in relation to this pattern, please comment below and I will do my best to respond.

Snorlax 12

Snorlax Love

Pokémon and Pokémon character names are trademarks of Nintendo


24 thoughts on “Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

  1. In for Snorlax Amigurumi Crochet pattern:
    What do you mean by Round 3: (dc,INC) x3, dc 3?
    Is it double crochet in first stitch then 2 x double crochet in 2nd stitch or three double crochet in the first stitch?

    Just finding your pattern little hard to follow.


    1. Hi – let me try this again without autocorrect meddling with my typing 🙂 Sorry to hear you’re having trouble reading my pattern.
      (Dc, inc) means dc in the first st, and then increase in the next (see description above; inc means two dc in one st). X3 means repeat what’s in the brackets 3 times. Once you have done this you should have three unworked sts from the previous round, and the dc 3, simply means that you work one dc in each of these sts. Voilá, round complete. Hope that clears it up. Good luck


  2. Hi, should Round 33 & 37 be DC 3 (DC 9, INC) x 3 & DC 3 (DC 10,INC) x3? As if you do it twice gets you halfway around the circle under your instructions?


    1. Actually, this was my question, too. Made the mistake of putting it down for a bit and forgot how I did it in previous rows. What am I missing?


      1. Yay! I see my error … so, the sts in the brackets should be repeated x3, which I’ve managed to include in the pattern up until row 29 and should also be the case for the remaining rows! So to clarify row 33 should say: *dc 3, (dc 9, inc) x 3**, repeat *to** twice. I’ll go in and amend this now! Thank you for spotting this and reaching out ! x


      2. Ok, great! I thought maybe that was the case, but the numbers weren’t adding up for some reason (my fault). Thank you for this awesome pattern!


  3. Should the main body be double crochet or single? I’ve crocheted up to the end of the head section but it’s looking rather oblong, like i shouldn’t have done all of rows 8 – 16 or that it should be in single crochet? Your images kind of look like they should be single too but i might be just looking at it wrong.

    Thanks in advance!

    Liked by 1 person

      1. well derp, that would be why then :). I only recently started learning to crochet so I didn’t know there was a difference. Thank you for responding so quickly!


  4. Hello!
    I really like this this pattern, how many skeins of yarn did you need to make the snorlax in this size? Also, do you have any tips on how I could make this in a larger size? 🙂
    Thank you veryy much!


    1. Hi and thank you for your lovely comment! I have used Stylecraft Special DK and for the main colour I have used less than one ball (it comes in 100g). The rest of the pieces I have used scraps of white and cream in Stylecraft Special DK. I’ve used a 2mm hook which is two hook sizes smaller than the label on the yarn says. I’m afraid I’ve never tired making this in any other sizes, but if I was to give it a go I think I would try maybe an Aran yarn or thicker but still ensure that the hook I use is a couple of sizes smaller than the one on the label of the yarn just to ensure that it gives a tight finish so that no polyester filling pokes out of any holes. But I’ve never tried this so I don’t know for sure if it will work….

      Liked by 1 person

      1. Thank you so much! I’ll try your advice, what would using Aran yarn or a thicker yarn do? 😡
        Would it help it stay tighter even though the Snorlax would be bigger?


  5. Thank you very much 🙂 I’m from chile so I had a little trouble understanding the terms I was used to US terms so i thought that DC was two sc in the same sticht lol but now I understand most of it 🙂 I’m starting with the belly today, what do you mean with “(ws)” is like “back side”? Meaning that we turn to the opposite side and continue working? Hope I can work it out lol it’s for a gift to a kid of a school that needs donations for christmas presents, kids with family/money problems 😦 they love pokemon so your snorlax will go to a pokemon fan from chile hahaha thanks!! (Sorry for my english)


    1. Hi and thank you so much for your lovely comment! Yes, you are right ws (wrong side) is the back side. So yes, this piece is worked back and forth in rows. When you sew the piece onto the body the ws is the side that faces the body, and rs (right side) is the front of the piece facing outwards. Hope this help! Wishing you all the best and good luck with your donations. Sounds like a great cause 🙂


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